Johanne Leveille meets a Japanese artist who is trying to change her people's culture.
She looked so young and energetic! "Probably because I make dolls," replied the elderly Japanese woman.
Always full of admiration for people displaying artistic talent, I asked more about her work and became particularly interested when I heard the 70-year-old artist travelled regularly between Gifu and Kyoto - a tiring 105km journey to practise making dolls.
"They resemble humans and mine usually look just like my grandson," she said, eagerly explaining that these dolls were not typical traditional Japanese dolls and as such were not popular collectors' items.
The studio she goes to in north-west Kyoto is named Aightowa (meaning 'love forever") by the owner/teacher Ms Mori and looks much like a miniature Austrian chateau. Its shield-like symbol consists of three spade shapes, each containing a plum blossom, an acorn or a maple leaf. Selected because of their abundance in
Ms Mori's garden, these three designs remind us of the cycle of life: the flower that blooms before the fruit that is born and the leaves that fall.
After completing her studies at a design school, Ms Mori worked for a few years designing clothes. Then about 20 years ago she experienced the creativeness involved in modelling figurines with clay. She continued to explore and develop her skills as a doll artist and, instead of waiting to reach a respectable age before teaching, as is usual in Japan, she began to share her expertise with others almost immediately and has been teaching for about 18 years.
Ms Mori's elegant dolls do not represent emperors or heroes, but neither are they toys.
Their purpose is to help Japanese people re-examine their values and to influence their concept of abundance and wealth. Ms Mori is well aware that Japan is often described as an opulent country because of its high GNP, but she believes that many other cultures have rich, significant lifestyles without making money a priority.
She wants to consider unexplored perspectives and believes that if people are receptive enough, they will receive her messages. Her dolls will hopefully become bridges leading people to different values cherished by various cultures.
Standing before Ms Mori's little exhibit of Aightowa, I could not help but think of the different walks of life we all too often tend to forget. Her dolls represent various ethnic lifestyles including such minority groups as the Hmong, Mien, Akha, Lisu and other peoples of the Golden Triangle.
"I favour them," said Ms Mori, "because they seem to be proud of their way of life. Very few Japanese feel that way nowadays about their own lifestyle." The unique aspect to remember about the graceful dolls of Aightowa is that they are not meant to be cute and charming. Rather they must reveal a distinct personality with a will and a spirit. The artists must create a doll with a mood which conveys a real message about life. They are so much a living part of Ms Mori's surroundings that she has named each one and always mentions to guests how embarrassing it is for the dolls to show their underwear in public.
"What does one need to create such a personified doll?" I asked.
"Time and creative skills, but most importantly sensibility to beauty and wonder," explained Ms Mori. Technically it takes only an hour to make the shape of a doll, but to give it the personality and the mood that the artist has in mind, such as joy or sadness, may take days or even weeks. Much time and patience are required. The details of hands and their positions necessitate tedious effort, while work on the face is the most demanding. The eyes of Ms Mori's creations are set wider apart than most dolls', focusing about 1m in front of the doll. In many cases, the eyes are positioned quite high up with only the lower half of the iris showing, as if the doll is looking up. This gives the impression of looking down on the doll even when it is viewed level with the face.
There are no moulds. Every piece of work is individually made by the artists with Ms Mori helping them to use all the tools for sculpting, sewing, weaving and painting. A large variety of materials, fabrics and accessories are essential for crafting and dressing these ethnic dolls. Clay, acrylics, silk, cotton, nylon, human hair, glue and oil are gathered from many different countries for the artists to create their messengers of the meaning of life.
Japanese dolls, such as copies made from pictures painted on traditional folding screens known as 'byobue', are also included. I noticed immediately a reproduction of Garasha, the famous 16th century Japanese noblewoman of nearby Nagaokakyo city, who converted to Christianity under the influence of the Portuguese in Nagasaki. In some ways Ms Mori is not unlike the headstrong Garasha, following her own notions of what constitutes a rich, complete life.
Sizes vary. Some are miniature, but most are 20ins (500mm) to over 40ins (1m) high and the byobue are half the size of the originals. Many also have moveable heads and hands. All Ms Mori's dolls, which she treats as her children, are female and she has no inclination to produce male dolls, though some do appear quite masculine.
Ms Mori did not have a teacher, but taught herself the art and craft of producing her own expressive dolls. She has also worked with her friend Ms Nagatamoe, an illustrator who works on charming fantasy dolls. Ms Mori's book 'Lou-Lan' contains numerous pictures of her friend's work. Her 'children' have not yet been overseas, but travel to different parts of Japan when she holds her exhibitions at museums and department stores. She dislikes Japanese contests since judges tend to establish criteria according to teachers rather than the products. "They do not pay attention to the energy or feelings being transmitted through the art, " she said.
Some 60 Japanese women of all ages currently travel from many parts of the country to learn Ms Mori's techniques, and schedules are flexible to accommodate their various needs. The doll showroom above the workshop is open to everyone.
Aightowa, set among bamboo groves, is idyllic. The pleasant courtyard with its flowers and soft music is surrounded by gardens and an ideal place to relax and reflect on Ms Mori's philosophy of a rich way of life through the art of making exquisite ethnic dolls.
[ The artisans city ]
Kyoto is home to many artisans and doll-makers in particular. Two famous doll companies have their headquarters there and as well as Aightowa there are many doll-makers making their own individual dolls.
The city was the capital of Japan from 794 to 1603, during which period dolls representing the Imperial household were manufactured. When displayed, the doll representing the Empress was placed on the right of the Emperor, a custom which is still observed. Later, when the capital was moved to what is now Tokyo, the Empress was placed on the Emperor's left reflecting, it is said, the influence of the royal courts of European countries with which Japan then interacted.
There are many shops throughout the city selling different kinds of dolls, and dolls for the children's day celebrations can be bought at major department stores. Be ready with your credit card, though, as these are works of art and prices can be much higher than expected.
[How to get there] Aightowa is best approached on foot. It nestles tightly against the
western mountains north of the Arashiyama tourist area known
as Saga. The area has many small temples, nearly all of which contain some artistic national treasure. The narrow paths leading through tall, swaying bamboo groves are popular walks with both young lovers and married couples.
From Kyoto station take the San-in line to Saga-Arashiyama station. Walk away from the station and turn right and right again into the main tourist street. Walk up to the railway tracks (away from the river and most of the tourists). Once over the tracks, head north-west through any one of several narrow
streets. Aightowa is about 30 minutes from the station walking at a leisurely pace.
Find your way to Jojakko-ji temple and you are there. Some 500 yards west of the temple gate is the green sign and open gateway of Aightowa. Take the path to your left and you will see the courtyard, the coffee shop on the right and the workshop with showroom above on the left. Ms Mori will welcome you with graciousness. You may simply want to enjoy the refreshments served in the coffee shop, or look at the dolls in the boutique. If you wish to see the other dolls in the showroom, Ms Mori will be pleased to show you her creations.
Further information can be obtained from Ms Mori herself at: Aightowa, 1 Yamamoto-Cho, Ogurayama, Saga, Ukyo-Ku, Kyoto, 616-8396.
Tel: +81 (0)75 881 5521.
Fax: +81 (0)75 861 5607